Speaking of garlic seedlings, it's much easier than garlic. First of all, you have to choose the right place. Garlic seedlings love lots with plenty of sunlight and water. I tested it in the balcony foam box last year, and it looks better than in the ground, don't you think
Feeding is the key. Seeds need to be bubbled with warm water for 12 hours. My neighbor zhang was in trouble with the direct planting, which resulted in a rate of less than 50 per cent and he was so angry at his feet. It is most appropriate to control the sowing depth at 2-3 cm, too deep for the seedlings to come out, too shallow and easy to fall back。
The best part is that i found a little trick: pre-planting the seed with thin beers, a 30% increase in gerbility. Don't ask me how it works. I learned it from the man who sells garlic. You have to keep the soil moist, but don't accumulate water, or you'll get a "collective rotting root" in a minute。
New techniques for garlic seed growing
In recent years, there have been a number of black-tech plantings, which have made me an old farmer who has been growing garlic for over a decade! The hottest is "stereoculture" with a pvc tube and a square metre of production, especially for the balcony。
There's also an "interruptive leachate" that's particularly interesting: water is given only two hours a day and dry at other times. That sounds crazy, doesn't it? But the experiment proved that the garlic seed was thicker and less ill. The principle is to simulate the growth of desert plants
The most amazing is led. Last winter i put a red blue light led in the shed, and it grew like hormonal, so i could pick it up in 20 days. It's a little expensive, but the price of the counterseason is double
What's the technology for garlic seedlings
And that's how you turn garlic into science. There's a lot of doorways in there. First of all, we have to understand that garlic and garlic are born in the same mother, but in a different way。
Temperature control is the core technology. 15-20°c is the best growth temperature, and more than 25°c is starting to lose temper. I have a blood and tears lesson: last summer, we had a lot of greed, and it all turned out to be "dwarves," and then we fed chickens。
Fertilizers are "no eating." i usually use rotting chicken dung to get bottom of it, and then i chase it once a week. Don't use fresh manure
The most likely to be overlooked is the "small smoo". If they're too dense, they'll be playing the ceremonial play, stealing each other's nutrients. It's ideal to keep three to five centimetres apart, and it's not a waste
How do you grow garlic? High
Come on, give you some focus! First point: pick the round full of garlic, and don't push the dry ones。
Second point: 20 minutes of impregnation with multibacterium before seeding. This step would prevent 80 per cent of endemic diseases and would be more useful than after-action. My aunt wouldn't listen, and the whole army...
Third point: controlling water use. Remember the saying, "dry, wet, dry." i invented an earthly method -- stick a chopstick in the ground, pull it out and see how wet it is, better than any high-tech instrument
Fourth point: timely harvest. The best harvest time for garlic seedlings is 20-25 cm high, which is when it tastes the least. Don't ask me how...
Fifth point: the turn of events. The same land is growing for two seasons at most, or it's about to have a party. I usually have garlic seed -- spinach -- cabbage, which is the turn, with high rates of land use and disease prevention。
Operational manual on pest control
Speaking of pests and diseases, i've got too much to say. Last year's maggots broke, making me a "control specialist" overnight。
Garlic maggots are the most annoying, they're the ones that pick up the mouth. My best trick is to sow teaseed powder in a ditch, which is more effective than pesticides and is purely natural and harmless. If it's already happened, it'll take three days to root it out with avil。
Leaf stubble is also a bad influence, and the yellow spot on the leaves is like the old spot. Control of moisture is key to prevention, with early and late ventilation of the shed. In the early stages of the outbreak, a dyson manganese zinc spray was used, bearing in mind that both the right and the wrong side of the leaf were sprayed。
The most painful is the horse. It's smaller than a needle, but dangerous! I found a bias: a blue sticky plate plus garlic pepper spray, which works both ways. If you can't help it, use it
