A misunderstanding of the millennia is revolutionizing in vegetable gardens。
You've probably seen the kind of hot peppers, a thick, dry “cream trees”, and you wonder if it's just a special effect. In fact, peppers are born to grow shrubs for many years, and in tropical regions of central and south america, they can grow into small trees. We see it as a year-long vegetable, mainly because of the drop of frost in the open air, the frost and the freezing of peppers。
With scientific winterization techniques, ordinary peppers can survive the winter safely, re-emerge the next year, slowly trim and form the “piprika tree” in your mouth. This is not only an upgrading of planting techniques, but also a re-recognition of the growth properties of chili。
I. Perceptions: why is chili used as a one-year plant
We are accustomed to treating chili as a one-year crop, mainly from the following perceptions:
Varieties selection: which peppers are suitable for “trees”
Not all chili varieties are suitable for long winters. The selection of suitable varieties is a first step towards success。
Varieties suitable for old stakes:
Cape peppers, peppers, peppers, peppers: fast wooding, thick branches are ideal options。
Spicy rice: it can get past winter, but the branches are thin and need to be trimmed and reinforced。
Wire peppers, chili peppers: wood is highly woody and suitable for old stakes。
The following species are not recommended:
Skin peppers, fruit-type sweet peppers: after winter, they are weak and ill, and there has been a marked decline in production after the recovery。
A plant with a rotting, aging disease: the fungus is hidden in its roots, completely white when spring begins。
Option proposal: if you're a first attempt, you'll be advised to choose horn pepper or pepper, which are resilient, adaptable to the environment and more successful。
Iii. Winterization: managing the gold window period
It's hot root that gets warmer than the winter, and it's too early or too late to do it。
Late september-early october: stop applying nitrogen and increased phosphorus
Promotion of woody branches
Shearing and processing
7-10 days before the first frost drop: finish trimmed the wound and plastered the grass
Winter protection
Once trimmed, it's going to take place immediately
Temperature stability above 15°c in the coming year: gradual sprouts freeze. Jing
Time references:
Northern region: late september-early october
Huang huaihara region: mid-october
Southern region: end of october-early november
Key principles: it is essential that trim and winterization be completed 10-15 days before the first local fall. Once the pepper plant is frozen, the core of the root will be irreversibly frozen, followed by temperature protection and a significant reduction in survival。
Iv. Guide to hands-on: four steps towards winterization
Step 1: precision trimmed and maintenance points maintained
Cutting is the key to success in winter, and the core logic is to clear out surplus consumption, store all nutrient return streams in the roots and backbones, and sleep over winter。
Operational elements:
Clean up the picks: all the paprikas and red peppers still hanging on the trees are removed, and no fruit is left for winter. Keeping the fruit will continue to consume primary nutrients, and it will be difficult to germinate in the next year。
Clearing of useless branches: cutting all green and fresh, thin and weak branches, sick and dead branches, yellow leaves。
Retention of backbone: only 15-20 centimetres of wood fertilized old piles, with three to five full sprouts。
Wound treatment: cutting a layer of dry grass-wood ash seals, encircling the fungus and preventing the wounds from contracting the scab。
Step two: fix the pine soil and remove the bad roots
After triming the branches, the root system needs to be addressed:
Lightly excavated pine soil: the pine soil is dug in the outer circle of the chili root, bearing in mind that the main root is not to be dug deep。
The roots are trimmed: the rotting roots, the dry and weak roots, the intact roots and the stamina roots。
Drainage: drain drains between the pine fields, the elimination of the roots of the water, the worst fear of dampness in the winter, and the best dry and warmer environment for the winter。
Step three: root-covered bacon, locking the temperature-proof root
It's the most critical step against freezing
Method of operation:
At the root of the old paprika pillar, 8-10 centimetres of soil are added to the ground, so that the roots are completely immersed。
The roots are the weakest part of the chili, most prone to freezing to death, and when buried, they lock the ground, keep it cold, and keep it wet to prevent the wind from drying out。
Scratch soil: scratch solid soil cracks to avoid cold winds pouring into the cracks and freezing roots。
Step four: cover the temperature and sleep
When the soil is finished, a layer of dry straw, weed, leaves or decomposition of dry straw is laid on the surface as a conservatory layer。
Cover elements:
Medium thickness: don't put too much cover on it. It's not boring。
Effects: temperature protection during winter, cold weather drying, and water stubble in rain and snow。
Cursed: don't overlay the temperature cover too thick. The thick cover is poorly airy, the internal tide of the soil is undispersed, and the heat is chronically wet and damp, leaving the roots highly susceptible to decay。
V. North-south differential winterization strategy
China's vast territory and climate vary widely between the north and the south。
He trims and digs up a pepper plant with a earthball。
It's more than 30 cm in diameter。
It is best to move into an indoor balcony or sunlight room at 5-12°c。
Avoid placing it next to the heating, the temperature is too high, the hot peppers sprouts early in the winter, the buds are thin and weak, and they die early after spring。
Vi. Management in winter: three taboos and gold temperature
When peppers enter hibernation, the point of management is “less intervention”。
Three taboos
No water: hot peppers are dormant in the winter, the roots are scarcely watered, and the soil is not dried up. It's just a little bit of the root. It's a little bit of the root. Many people die of peppers that are not frozen, but watered during winter。
Non-fertilization: fertilization is completely suspended during winter, and the old stakes have enough nutrients to support themselves until spring。
Not pine soil: frequent pine soil cuts off the substrates that protect the roots。
Golden temperature
5-10°c: optimal hibernation temperature and steady winter break for plants。
Less than 0°c: freezing to death。
More than 15°c: pre-emerging, nutrient depletion, influence on trends in the coming years。
Small judgement techniques: when the plant reaches winter, the weight of the flower basin can be measured by hand, and the apparent decrease in light means that the soil is dry and that a small amount of water can be recharged along the basin。
Vii. Wake-up in spring: the transition from hibernation to growth
Living through winter does not automatically turn into chili trees. The management of springs and springs determines whether it's a pile of ordinary peppers or an old tree。
Gradual refining
When the temperature rises in the early spring and the thaws rise, it is forbidden to remove all the thermostats at once。
Correct practice:
During the day, a portion of the cover was ventilated and the temperature was restored in the evening。
The root is gradually adapting to external temperatures to avoid freezing wounds caused by the typhoid runoff。
Once the earth is warm and the roots are fresh and fresh, the surface cover will be completely cleaned and the light turp will breathe。
Sprouts and branches
There will be many new buds in the backbone, which will be sprouts, not all of which will remain。
Only two or three strong new buds are kept on each branch, and the rest of the buds are wiped out。
Too many sproutings, scattered nutrients, and long branches, will never form trees。
Scientific fertilizer
After the new sprouts, a small combination of corroded organic fertilizers is used, and no fertilisation is applied, which results in long, long leaves without fruit。
Fertilizer programme:
First fat: when new buds grow to about 5 cm, a small amount of thin organic fat is applied (e. G. 10 times diluted by decomposition rice)。
Late pursuit of fertilizers: increased phosphate fattening (e. G. Potassium phosphate) during the bouquet period to promote flowering sitting fruit。
Viii. Common problems and solutions
Why haven't my peppers sprout after winter
Possible causes:
Late cut: frostbite, root frostbite
Zero soil: roots frozen or dry
Overwatered: soil wetter in winter lead to rotting roots
Overcovered: bad air-transmitting leads to bad roots
Solutions: checking root system conditions, cutting dead parts, re-doing soil wetting, waiting for a possible delayed bud。
Is the second year of production really higher than the new seed
Objectively, it is well maintained, with considerable production for the second and third years. The old roots are well developed, germinate early and stable, with the ability to hang fruit about 20 days in advance. However, after the fourth year, the principals slowly age in their interiors, with a marked increase in the probability of viral diseases and root diseases and a gradual decline in yields. It is recommended that the old stake be updated after 2-3 years of use。
How to prevent pests and diseases during winter
Pre-winter clean-up: cut the branches of disease, dry branches, clear the fields of weeds and reduce the number of eggs and fungi hidden。
Tool disinfection: 75 per cent of alcohol or grass and grey water is used to wipe scissors before trimmed to avoid infection。
Inspection of pests: check the back of the leaf before winter and clear winter pests such as aphids and white powder lice。
Maintenance of ventilation: adequate ventilation in winter environments, reduced humidity and reduced fungus breeding。
Ix: long-term management of old peppers
Successful winterization was only the first step, and long-term scientific management was also required to keep peppers high for many years。
Shear & update
It is updated every 2-3 years: the old chili is old for two to three years, and there are a lot of diseases, so that the new seedlings can be replaced, the new and the old pairs made steady。
Periodically trim the root system: when changing basins, the roots are properly trimmed, and the roots are rotten and new roots are promoted。
Summer trims: suitable roofing, twiging and ventilation during the growing season。
Soil and nutrition
Regular re-profiling: piping is replaced every 1-2 years to update soil and replenish nutrients。
Scientific fertilisation: long-term nitrogen fertilisation, increased phosphorus fertilisation during bouquet。
Soil improvement: regular addition of organic matter, improvement of soil structure and prevention of compaction。
Integrated pest management
Prevention is predominant: regular inspections, early detection and treatment。
Biological control: the use of cedar molluscs and the release of natural enemies。
Rational use: when necessary, use low-toxic, high-efficiency pesticides, with safety intervals。
Through the systematic management of the above, your paprika stakes are well placed to sustain the growth momentum and high yields of many years in succession, to truly realize the desire for “one planting, many harvests” and to enjoy the joy of “free peppers” in the wake of the year in which they are bought。
