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The autumn was a golden transition for flowers, with many summer flowers slowly dying and sleeping, leaving their balconyes and huts empty and unsettled. Many people raise flowers in the autumn only with the wind and the tulips, but they don't know that lily is the most valuable flower in the autumn。
Those who know how to raise flowers know that lily belongs to the autumn blossoming balls, and that in autumn it is not a flowering season, it is not an expensive flower, it is a cold spring that takes root throughout the autumn and winter, and it will explode directly next spring. The flowers are full of flowers, they are elegant, the most important of which is sweet and sweet, and they are extremely penetrating, and they bloom in a house that smells 100 times as good as artificial incense。
Many newcomers have raised lilies and have been stepping on a fatal error zone: using them as one-off flowers. When the flowers are lost, the balls are removed, the soil is thrown out, the new ones are bought every year, the flowers are opened only once a year, and the results are not yet visible。
In fact, lily is a multi-year root plant that grows more and more, and grows more and more, and grows more and more. As long as they grow in the fall, and when they are properly raised, a ball can breed several small balls a year, and the next year a bowl will become multi-basketed and burst, and the more the number, the more the flowers will bloom and the more the scent will be。
Today we share with you a zero-basic, fall-basic package of conservation and reproduction dry goods, consisting of seed selection, fall core techniques, fall and winter conservation, springization principles, flower management, after-flower feeding, split-ball breeding, four-season pit avoidance processes. Full-blown words, unprofessionally obscured terms, allow newcomers to grow, grow, relive and buy flowers at once。
I. Why do you grow lilies in the autumn, better and more flower than spring
A lot of people wonder why lily can grow it in spring. Why do you give priority to autumn planting? The gap between the two is very large, and it is also the core gap between the old and the new。
According to gardening norms and many years of practical experience, lilies are the best planting time for september to november of each year, a period of cooler, warmer and warmer soil, free from the risk of high summer temperatures and heavy suns and rotten balls, and sufficient time for seed balls to take root before winter。
First, the autumn lilies bring their own low-temperature spring, with flowers of high quality crushing spring。
The lilies must meet the conditions of low-temperature springing, in short, the need to experience a low-temperature environment for a period of time to stimulate the sprouts of the ball. In autumn, the natural cooling of the autumn winter season coincided with the springing process, with large flowers, large flowers, pure colours and fragrance. The lily planted in the spring lacks natural springing, many of which will only keep the leaves open, or will be thin, thin and tasteless。
Secondly, the autumn lilies are stronger and more resilient to the cold。
In the autumn, soil temperatures are appropriate, with the spherical seeding giving priority to the root line, a steady bottom plate and slow growth of branches on the ground. The pre-winter roots have grown deep and steady, with winter sleep strong and spring temperatures rising again in the coming year, with a direct increase in the length of the leaves and the rapid growth of the flowers。
Thirdly, in autumn, lilies are free to explode and breed indefinitely。
In autumn, seed balls are planted, growing cycles are complete, nutrients are accumulated, seedlings are expanding at great speed, and the bottom part produces more small balls. The spring lilies have short growth cycles and insufficient nutrients and are barely capable of popping up and becoming multibaskets。
A brief summary: spring seeds look at luck, autumn species look at strength, autumn lily, flowering, reflowering, breeding capacity, all aspects better than spring planting。
Ii. Newists must learn: autumn lilies selection + pre-treatment to stop bad balls hana
In order to start the year ahead, the first step would be to pick the balls, do pre-plant treatment, do the bottoms, and do more conservation work later. A lot of people grow lilies without flowers, with rotten balls dying, all pre-processed。
1. High-quality seed selection criteria (one-shot identification)
The newcomers give priority to large balls of 16 to 18 centimetres around them, full of compactness, tight layers of scales, unbreakable, non-stereotyped, insect-free eyes, and complete and hard undercarriage。
To avoid three low-quality balls: one with dry hair, loose slabs, low nutrients, and difficult to bloom; two with green, black spots, decomposed spots on the surface, with easily contagious roots; and three with overcuts, broken chassis, with no normal roots。
The family views and prioritizes perfume lily, heavy petal lily and asian lily: the fragrance is the most fragrance and the largest flower type; the fragrance is the highest in the petals and the layers are stacked; the fragrance of asian lilies is free, suitable for the fragrance of the people, and the flowers are the most intense, with options available to all。
Pre-plant treatment (microcicide, increased survival)
Net-purchased or stored seed balls are easily carried with fungus, eggs and are grown directly to the point where they are extremely bad。
The first step is to trim the dried-up scales: to tear the dried, soft-haired, moldy outer scales of the seed surfaces lightly and to keep them full of healthy seed balls。
Step two: bacillus impregnation: dilution with multibacterix, impregnation of the seed ball for 20 minutes, total destruction of surface fungus and eggs。
Step three, ventilator drying: a ball is taken out, and the water is dryed in the cooler ventilator, and there is absolutely no tan。
The fourth step, refilling water wakes up: dry squirt balls can be immersed in water for a short period of 10 minutes, awakening the activity of the squirt, and full of squirms need not be immersed。
Preprocessed seed balls, with a survival rate close to 100 per cent, do not have problems with bad balls, rigidity or flowering。
Iii. The autumn lilies are the right way to grow: deep gas, core of the next year's pops
LilyThere's an industry mouth: deep buried, aired, water-grubled, shallow-casted cars. Many newcomers grow lily, with too shallow a patch of ground, which leads to fallbacks, no flowers, no balls, and a precise standardized planting process, with pellets and floors being planted。
One, a pelt of earth
Lily is the root of the ball, the most afraid of strangulation, and the pelvis must be dehydrated and drained。
(c) the universal one-size-fits-all soil for families: 4 peat + 1 pearl rock with a balanced ratio, abating gas and water。
There is no peat, which can be used to mix scavenging leaves, river sands and avoid pure clay, yellow soil, such as soil plates that accumulate water, a 100% ball。
The flower basin option: priority is given to deep basins, lilies are well developed and require deep roots, and depths above 15 centimetres are most appropriate, with shallow basins limiting root systems to growth and very poor longing. Fifteen centimetres of flower basins can grow between three and five balls with a distance of between three and five centimetres。
2. Depth of cultivation (highest priority, flowering and blasting balls)
The lilies, unlike ordinary flowers, must be planted in depth, and the top of the ball is two to three times as thick as the diameter of the ball, which is most suitable for 5 to 8 centimetres。
The three main advantages of deepness are the growth of roots, the complementary absorption of nutrients, and stronger nutrients; the prevention of long falls and falls without the need for additional stretchers; and the stabilization of deep soil temperature, which is conducive to the expansion of the balls and the sharing of small balls。
Rare lilies, with thin leaves, easy to fall back, few flowers, and unable to split sides, will never have enough or enough。
Iii. Steps to be enough
As a first step, a layer of pottery and gravel is laid at the bottom of the basin to make tarcrete to prevent the accumulation of water at the bottom
(b) step two, load up half of the soil and put dry seedballs straight up, and not fall down, flat
(a) step three, the earth covered, with a watering of the root, a one-time watering, and no repeated watering
In the fourth step, three to five days of seedlings are placed in the cold ventilated air and moved to the conservation of the light environment。
Remember: only once after planting, before the sprouts, without drying, without frequent watering, the wet pelvis will rot directly。
Iv. Conservation techniques throughout the fall and winter: winter roots, spring pops, zero failure of new hands
Autumn seeding is not the end, and conservation in autumn and winter determines the amount of flowers and the number of seedlings to be grown in the coming years. Many people do not care about it。
1 autumn suspended seed conservation (september-november)
Before the ball sprouts: cold air, controlled water conservation, soil drying, avoiding sunlight and water accumulation。
After the ball sprouts: slowly increasing the dispersive light, ensuring that the light is more than four hours a day, that the light is strong enough, and that the light is not long, thin or flowering。
Fertilizers: no strong fertilization during the nursery period, but small amounts of thin generic nutrients can be applied to promote growth of roots and branches, which can be done with little effort。
2. Winter hibernation maintenance (december-february)
The lilies are extremely cold-resistant, underground balls can withstand zero temperatures, the north can plant natural winters, and the plant needs simply to avoid the wind。
The winter conservation core: low-temperature hibernation, and sustaining the ball. When temperatures are reduced, the branches slow down and go into hibernation, when fertilization is stopped, water is reduced and the soil is dried up。
Do not trim the leaves, keep the green blades for microlight co-operation, continue to deliver nutrients to the balls, and keep the balls growing and growing。
The natural low temperature of autumn and winter coincides with the need for liquillaization, which is the greatest advantage of all kinds of lilies, without artificial refrigeration and efficient。
3. Long-term conservation in spring (march-april)
In spring, the temperature rises and lilies grow rapidly and produce flowers, at which point normal management of water fertilizers resumes。
Watering: dry and wet, dry and rewatering the surface of the pelvis and keeping wet and dry
(a) light: the more direct light is guaranteed for more than six hours, the more the light reaches, the more the flowers and the more the scent
Fertilizers: the application of potassium phosphorus every 10 days promotes the fragmentation and expansion of flowers, the elimination of excessive nitrogen fattening and the avoidance of long leaves from flowering。
V. Further management: experience, silent shoots, purpose transfer
Through autumn and winter, the lilies entered flowering seasons from april to june and managed them in such a way that they were larger, longer-lived and fragranced。
1. Prohibition of tan: tan during flower season, which accelerates the tanning of flowers, shortens the tanning of flowers, covers them appropriately at noon and lasts for three to five days
2. Prohibition of watering the flowers: watering them away from flowers, which can easily lead to deterioration and early release
3. Non-fertilization: stop fertilization after flowering and avoid fertilization leading to falling flowers
4. Ventilation: the fragrance of fragrances spreads evenly, the fragrance of lilies is soft and stingy, and the whole house is fragrance。
The fragrance of perfumes is natural, fragrance and comforting, and they are placed in living rooms and balconyes that both observe and cleanse the air and enhance the atmosphere of the home。
Core dry goods: don't throw the flowers away
The vast majority of people raise lilies only once, which is rooted in the fact that the flowers are cut, the balls are thrown away and the opportunities for reproduction are wasted. Real flower growers, flowering is only a process, and then the ball is raised, and popping is the point。
1. The first step after the flower: cut flowers only, not leaves
When the lilies are dying, they cut off only the flowers, and all green leaves and branches are kept, and none cut。
Many newcomers mistook the foliage as useless, cut it out, cut the nutrient transmission channel completely, and the balls could not accumulate nutrients, and in the following year they could not be replaced。
Retaining the effects of the leaves: the only way to keep the leaves luminous and cooperative is to keep the nutrients flowing to the bottom of the balls, so that the main ball can expand and cause the sideballs to separate。
2. Post-flower water fertilizer conservation and obese seed balls
The flower is followed by a critical period of feeding, at which time the water and weight are not lost。
Watering: normal drying and wetting, maintaining plant activity
Fertilizers: once a month, phosphate fattens, slow decomposition, supplements nutrients consumed by flowering, and booster-species balls expand rapidly and produce small balls。
Throughout the spring and summer autumn, the branches were kept to grow naturally and were not artificially trimmed。
3. Hibernation/remote conservation (north-south)
There are two types of conservation options, as needed, until the fall temperatures are reduced and the leaves are naturally yellowened, and growth is completely halted and dormant。
Mode i: care of the lazy (suitable for newcomers, southern region)
When the leaves are all withered, they are cut off from the dead branches, they keep the balls in the basin, they stop the water and they lose weight, and they are put to sleep in the cold and in the rain. The soil is kept dry and wet and does not need to be repaired until the autumn cools, when the water is brought to awoke, when the natural flower blooms and the year after year。
Mode two: a ball ball breeds (suitable for a tub, mass breeding)
The floors can be lifted from the ground or the pottery, and the whole of the ground will be dug out and the soil will be removed lightly。
It is clear that around one of the original main balls, a variety of small sideballs of different sizes were produced, all of which could be grown on their own。
Categorize the size of the balls, dry the surface moisture, store them in the dry and cool areas, plant them in the autumn, and grow them in more and more, so that they do not have to buy any more。
4. Key reminder: special conservation in the two guangfukuan areas
In the high-temperature areas of the south, low temperatures in the autumn and winter, inadequate natural springing and less effective fragrances, it is recommended that priority be given to asian lilies, single-capture lilies, low springing requirements and greater stability。
Seven, three methods of propagating the lilies in limit. Basin
With these three techniques, the lilies in the family can reproduce indefinitely, and the more they grow, the less they need to buy new flowers。
1. Spread ball reproduction (simplistic, 100% survival)
This is the preferred method of raising a family flower, which is available every year for hibernation, stripping off the plumes around the main ball and planting them on its own。
2. Polio-plug reproduction (bulk reproduction)
The selection of healthy seed balls, stripping of whole scales, plastering in lax and humid soil, and cooling and ventilation conservation, will produce small balls at the bottom of the scales for a period of time, suitable for bulk expansion。
3. Cultling (applies to some varieties)
Part of the lily leaves grow in buds, when they mature, they fall off automatically, they grow roots, they reproduce naturally and without artificial intervention。
Viii. The eight most easily pedestaled areas of lilies for new hands, one-time avoidance
Spring planting: lack of springing, thinning and high probability of no flowering
Ii. Lightball species: easy to fall, non-explosive, long and thin
3. Water from the soil basin: the most important cause of the rotting root of the ball, rather than wet
4. Post-flower cut leaves: the balls are simply destroyed and they cannot be reflowered
5. Frequent watering in autumn and winter: low-temperature water plume, best dryed during hibernation
6. Water for the tan of the guava: shorter bouquets and flowers
7. Excessive nitrogen fattening: long leaves, no flowers and long falling leaves
8- throwing balls after flowers: once-in-a-time flower farming, waste of reproductive opportunities。
Ix. Core summary of the whole
Lily is definitely the most expensive and most valuable domestic flower in the autumn。
In the autumn, after the natural springing of the fall and winter, which has taken root, the next spring will be full of flowers, flowery, fragrance, and a lot of flair and atmosphere over ordinary green flowers. The rarest thing is that lily is not a one-off flower, provided that the technique of keeping leaves behind the flowers and resting ball breeds is the ability of a ball to grow year after year, to blow up its own children, and to grow more and more, a bowl becomes a dozen。
Instead of pursuing expensive varieties, ordinary fragrance lily and heavy petal lily, new hands can grow flowers every year, seasons are fresh and easily produce flowers。
The pleasure of rearing flowers is not to buy them year after year, but to produce an infinity and flower at the lowest cost, and to reap the beauty of the years and the beauty of the house。
End topic discussion
Today, a full set of dry products from fall lilies, fall and winter conservation, flower management, after-flower feeding, and split-breeding were shared in detail to teach people how to grow the annual flowers, and how to grow more and more。
