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A large number of people have had lilies in their homes, which are of high colour, fragrance and long bouquets, either in the balcony or in the indoors. But the lilies have almost the same headaches: a good lily with leaves, yellow, dry, lost leaves, some yellow leaves at the bottom, some at the top, some with yellow ash。
What is most troubling is that the yellow leaf is the same, and the more the water is watered, the more the leaves are not so yellow, the faster the yellow leaves are fertilized, and the smaller the yellow the leaves are not fertilized. Many beginners don't know the difference between the causes, but they pour water blindly, fertilize, tan, and lastly, a good platter of lilies, and the balls rot。
Many have mistakenly assumed that lilies lack water and nutrition, but they are not right. According to data on horticultural cultivation, 39 per cent of lilies are due to water accumulation, 22 per cent to deficiency imbalances and the remainder to light, temperature, pests, hibernation, fertility and soil problems, with only a very small number of missing leaves。
Lily is the root flower of the ball, and the meatballs are the most afraid of water accumulation, strangulation and fertilizing. Each yellow leaf state is a precise problem, with cause-to-fact resolution, and the yellow leaf problem can be stopped quickly, the plant is restored to green and green, with more flowers, more flowers and more fragrance in the coming year。
Today, the eight core causes and precise solutions of the yellowing of lily leaves are dismantled in conjunction with the standard for the conservation of professional ball root flowers, accompanied by a four-season set of conservation techniques, a guide for new hands to avoid pits, full-blown rhetoric, real-life exercises, and easy lilies for the zero-basin freshmen, so as to put an end to the yellow leaf problem。
I. Natural metabolism (old yellow on the bottom, normal phenomenon not cured)
This is the only normal situation in all lilies that is not remedied and careless, and is also the most susceptible issue for newers to over-intervention。
Lily is a root grassland plant with fixed growth metabolic cycles. During the planting process, the old leaves at the bottom are slowly ageing, nutrients flow back, leaves chlorophyll recede, yellowing from the tip of the leaf and the edge of the leaf, and finally drying up, and all nutrients revert to supply the balls and new branches。
Typical identifier
1. The yellow leaf is found only in the two-to-four lobes that are at the bottom of the plant, with the upper part of the new leaf and the green side
2. Yellow leaves are even, spotless, non-failed, black-free, and the leaves are dry and dry and not sticky
Cultivation is normal, and the buds continue to grow, and the flowers grow normally, with no atrophy。
Correct approach
No water, no fertilizer, no spray, just normal maintenance。
When the old yellow leaves are completely dried up, they are removed lightly, avoiding piles of decay and bacteria and keeping the soil ventilated clean. Be careful not to force a half-yellow blade, which is easy to pull on the stem of a plant and affects nutrient transmission。
Freshman's hiding out
Instead of looking at the bottom of the yellow leaf and pouring water, fattening and moving to the sun, excessive intervention would disrupt the metabolic rhythm of the plant and trigger real conservation。
Ii. Overwatering and drying (highly lethal causes, 39% of the yellow leaf problem)
This is the fatal cause of the first place in the lily's yellow leaf ranking and is the central incentive for the vast majority of lily's deaths. The lily ball is a meat tuber with a strong internal capacity to store water and is the most vulnerable to the prolonged dampness of the pelvis。
Many newcomers are overworked, daily watering, frequent water spraying, prolonged wetness of the soil, inhalability of the root system, slow aerobic decay, loss of capacity to absorb water for fattening, and yellow symptoms of the leaves first。
Typical identifier
1. The yellow leaf begins to spread from the upper part of the plant and leaves are first yellow and soft
The leaves are yellow, glitter-free and soft, with long-term damp, slabs and a mild smell of earth
3. Heavy dry tubers have a soft base, leaves have a water stained yellow spot, and later the whole atrophy and the balls rot。
Precision solutions
Light-watered yellow leaves: immediately stop watering, move to a well-ventilated, light-ventilated area, accelerate the evaporation of the soil in the basin and strictly adhere to the principle of “dry-trucking”
2. Medium rotting yellow leaf: debatable examination of root lines, cutting of black, rotting, hollow roots and retaining of white health roots; replacement of fresh defusing soil and re-entry for preservation of slow seedlings
3. Heavy rotting root: cleaning of all rotting root systems, 10 minutes of spherical impregnation, drying, replacement of new earth-planting, temporary avoidance of light conservation and prohibition of fertilization。
Permanent prevention techniques
The only criterion for lily watering: no, no, no, no。
The surface soil is completely dried up to 3-5 centimetres, which is once again soaking up that water cannot be stored at the bottom of the flower basin; indoor ventilation is poor and rainy, and there is a firm determination not to water or spray water and to eliminate the prolonged dampness of the basin。
Iii. Long-term drought and water scarcity (whole leaves dry, yellow, dry tipping leaves)
Contrary to the roots of the water, the prolonged neglect of the water, the drying of the basin, the lack of water in the lilies, the inadequate water supply of the leaves, and the large amount of drying up, most of which occurs in the case of workmen and in the case of unmanageable pellets。
Typical identifier
1. The leaves are dry and yellow from the tip of the leaf, and the whole leaves are dry, hard and precipitous
2. A full-blown, dry-bracked, detached basin wall with a lighter overall weight
3. The whole plant is decaying, the new bud ceases to grow and the entire piece of the leaf is dried off during severe periods。
Precision solutions
1. Light drought: slow, small and repeated watering, so that the soil slowly absorbs the moisture, and no one-time flooding to avoid damage to the underlying temperature differentials
2. Heavy drought and dry breakup of the pellets: first a small amount of water is sprayed with wet surface soil, then water is poured out at half an hour intervals, and moved to a light ventilated seedling to restore normal maintenance
3. The drying of severe yellow leaves is directly trimmed to reduce nutrient consumption and to assist in the restoration of the plant。
Conservation focus
The balance of dry and wet water is the key to prosperity。
Iv. Inadequate light (sun burning/light-deficit long yellow leaves)
The lilies are very sensitive to the light, the tan of the sun burns leaves, the long-term lack of light grows yellow leaves, the two problems of light and the state of the yellow leaves are completely different and the distinction between the symptoms can be resolved with precision。
1. Slight tan (summer high)
In the summer, when the light is sharp, the lily leaves are so tender that they are easily burned with ultraviolet light that the chlorophyll is quickly lost, creating irregular yellow spots, yellow leaves and dry tippings。
Identifier: there are irregular yellow spots on the face of the leaf, the tip of the leaf is dark, the yellow leaves are severe to the sun, and the negative leaves are normal。
Solutions: to move immediately to the ventilator, to cut off the severe burning leaves, to cover the sun at 11:16 a. M. In the summer and avoid direct fire。
2. Long-term shortage of light leaves (high indoor maintenance)
The long-term placement in dark corners, closed rooms, insufficient light, the inability of lily to function with normal light cooperation, insufficient nutrient accumulation, flat yellow, soft, thin and thin, and inanimate leaves。
Identification: the whole leaf is yellow, green and white, the stem is long, the leaf is wide, the flower is unflowered and the flower is cut off。
Solutions: gradual increase of light, guaranteed four to six hours of light per day, avoidance of midday suns, permanent indoor maintenance regularly moved to window lighting and guaranteed basic light。
V. Improper application of fertilizers (fertilizing roots/inflation yellow, where 22% of yellow leaf originates)
The lily fertilisation is a delicate exercise, which leads directly to yellow leaves, which are corroded and infested。
1. Strong, fat, fat and yellow leaves (fast yellow leaves after fertilization)
Many newcomers want lilies to grow fast and flower, with frequent fertilisation, concentrated fertilisation, the use of undecompressed, fertilized fertilized fats, the accumulation of salt in the basin, the burning of roots, and large-scale foliage in a short period of time。
Identification: fast yellow leaves after 3-7 days of fertilisation, curvatures on the edge of the blades, white salt cream on the surface of the pelvis and weak plant。
The solution is to pour out the soil with plenty of fresh water, to dilute the salt of the excess fertilizer, to replace the soil with heavy debauchery, to suspend all fertilization, and to slow the recovery of the seedlings, and then to exercise the weight。
Illegitimate malnutrition (long-term non-fertilization, poor soil)
Long-term soil non-replacement, non-fertilization, depletion of soil nutrients, lack of critical elements such as nitrogen, iron and potassium for lily growth and the emergence of targeted yellow leaves are common problems in family pellets。
Nitrogen deficiency: yellowing of the whole of the lower leaves, thinness of the new leaves, light greening of the new leaves and stagnating plants
Iron deficiency: greenness of the new leaf, yellow hair of the leaves and yellow hair of the leaves, typical physico-cyanosis, with newer leaves and more severe yellowing
Potassium deficiency: yellow charred on the edge of the leaf, soft and resilient on the blades and thin flowers。
Precision fertilizer programme
Long spring and autumn life, with one dilution of balanced water solution per month to supplement full nutrition
(b) the problem of eutrophication of impurities and the application of sequestered iron solutions to improve the greening of leaves
Plumbing is supplemented by potassium phosphorus fattening, strong seedlings and the elimination of single fat and raw fat。
Temperature insatiable + natural yellow leaves during hibernation (high rise in summer and winter)
The livid suitable growth temperature is 15-25 degrees celsius, too high and too low, leading to the planting of stressful yellow leaves, while the lily high summer temperatures enter natural hibernation and normal yellow leaf atrophy。
High temperature hibernation yellow leaves (june-august summer)
The temperature continues to be above 30 degrees celsius, lilies cease to grow and go into hibernation, leaves slowly atrophy from the bottom up, and all nutrients revert to flow-ball stocks, which are normal physiological hibernation。
Solutions: stop fertilizing, reduce water irrigation, micro-drying of the pelvis, cutting of dry leaves, summer in the cold, and re-emergence after fall temperatures。
Low-temperature frozen yellow leaves (under 0 degrees in winter)
During the winter, cold and freezing wounds were sustained, with water stains on the leaves, soft hair and yellow hair and, in serious cases, with the whole of the frost。
Solutions: in-house heating in time for winter, temperature above 5 degrees, freezing of cold winds, freezing of yellow leaves and maintenance of water outages。
Vii. Infestation of pests and diseases (leaved leaves, molluscs, larvae)
Low ventilation, damp and hot, soil infestation, lilies are prone to fungal disease and pests, resulting in yellow and dry leaves and high levels of domestic planting。
1. Leavage
High above the wet and rainy season, there are irregular brown spots in the leaves, the spots are slowly expanding, the entire leaves are dry and dry, and they spread very quickly。
Solutions: timely removal of sick leaves, spraying of broad spectrum degeneratives, improved ventilation, reduced spraying of water and maintenance of leaf drying。
2. Bounty disease
The pellets of water, the poor ventilation, caused the seed ball to rot, the roots to rot, parts of the leaves on the ground to ablaze as a whole and the stem to fall softly。
Solutions: clean-up of decomposed seed balls, disinfection of fresh soil for fresh soil, immediate abandonment of the highly incurable value and avoidance of infection of other green plants。
3. Pest hazards
Aphids and red spiders suck on leaf saps, resulting in yellow, white and thin spots, and leaves without light。
Solutions: small quantities of pests are manually wiped, large areas of pests are sprayed with specialized insecticides and periodic ventilation prevention。
Viii. Soil plate salinization (long-term conservation of old seedlings)
For several years, many people have been growing a pelt of land that has never changed, unscathed, long-term watering, salinization, poor soil permeability, imbalanced acidity, inhibited breathing and reduced absorptive capacity, chronic malnutrition of plants and continuous yellowing of leaves from year to year。
Typical identifier
The pellets of soil are hard-walled, their surface is white, their water is incorrigible and they are not permeable, and the leaves are always thin and thin, with no flowers and no flowers。
Solutions
1. Light scatters: periodic pine soil with a small amount of decomposed organic fertilizer buried in the surface and improved soil aerobics
2. Heavy saline sheeting: a spring change of soil once a year, with the choice of a loosely fertilized corrosive, nutritious soil, with river sand, pearl rock, suitable for the growth needs of the lily ball
3. The daily water is used to minimize the accumulation of soil saline by drying up and running water。
Ix. Lily's year-round refinement of conservation techniques (newer general, farewell to repeated yellow leaves)
After understanding the causes of the yellow leaf, the four-season common conservation approach is accompanied by a complete stabilization of the long-term greening of the leaves and the rejuvenation of the year。
1. Soil-based techniques
The lilies are loose, air-transmitting, micro-acid soils, which are the most afraid of the thicker yellow soil and the garden。
General soil distribution programme: 4 leaves + 3 nutrients + 2 pearls + 1 chromosome of defecated sheep dung, with no air, sufficient nutrients and perfect for seeding. The flower pots give priority to venting pottery, gallon basins, and the bottom drains open, so as to prevent the accumulation of water。
2. Photocontrol techniques
(a) long-term spring and autumn life: full-time soft and light-dispersed conservation, with 4-6 hours of light per day to help grow leaves and seedlings
(b) summer high temperature: 50 per cent shade, protection from midday tan and prevention of leaf burning
Winterly low temperature: full-day lighting conservation, extra suns to raise the soil temperature in the basin, and anti-frozen seedlings。
3. Core water-watering guidelines
Following the “dry-wet-dry-wet-dry-wet-dry-wet-dry-dry-dry-dry-drinking”
Water control during summer hibernation, micro-dry conservation to avoid hot, wet roots
(c) the low temperature of winter water and the drying of the soil over the winter to prevent the freezing of roots
It is prohibited for the whole basin to accumulate soil, to be damp for a long time, and to spray water with frequent leaves。
4. Scientific fertilization programme
(a) long seeding period (spring and autumn): thin and indigence, 20 days of balanced water soluble and long leaves
(b) pregnancy curvature: increased application of potassium phosphate, 15 days in order to promote chromatization and expansion
(b) resting period (summer and winter): complete cessation of fertilization and avoidance of fertilisation of roots
New hands must bear in mind: no fattening, no fertilizer, no frequent fertilization, no more。
5. Ventilation and disease prevention
Day-to-day maintenance will keep the environment ventilated, with windows open for 2-3 hours per day in closed rooms
(b) the leaves are kept as dry as possible and do not accumulate water for long periods of time to eliminate fungal disease from its root causes
Old plant plants change roots every spring, clean the rotten roots, and upgrade soil nutrients。
6. Focus on conservation during hibernation
Lily is the flower of many years of life, and summer hibernation is either dead, and many newcomers mistakenly think that yellow leaves are dead or dead, throw them away and waste their seed balls。
In summer, when the leaves die, the balls are kept inside the basin, cold, ventilated, water-controled summers, fall temperatures fall back, and the balls begin to germinate, grow and bloom, and maintain them year after year。
X. Comprehensive summary
Lily's yellow leaves, you don't have to panic, you don't have to mess around。
A small amount of old leaves with yellow drying at the bottom is normal metabolism without intervention
High-middle-leaf yellow, softly abbreviated, probably strewn the roots of the water and immediately controlled the ventilation
(b) tilts of leaves drying up and pellets drying up, which are long-term droughts and timely refilling of water seedlings
(b) the luminous and yellowness of the leaves, which is inappropriate for light and timely adjustment of light
Fast yellow leaves after fertilization are a waste, chronic thin yellow is a deficiency and water control is used to supplement the disease
Temperature changes in summer and winter, soil sheeting and pest infestation are the hidden causes of repeated yellow leaves。
The core logic of the lily is: to get through the air, control the water, steady light, thin fertilisation, disease prevention, sleep hibernation。
There are no bad lilies, only no conservation methods. Absorption from the newer high frequency error zone and the solution to the yellow leaf problem will allow the lilies to grow green branches, spend long periods and relive years。
End topic discussion
