Chapter viiWave theoryAndPrinciples of calculationIn nature, fluctuations in the surface of the water, often referred to as wave movements, are often observed. Waves are one of the most common phenomena in the oceans and are the most important drivers and forces of coastal beach evolution, seaports and projects. There are many reasons for ocean fluctuations, such as wind, atmospheric pressure changes, the gravity of celestial bodies, the low density of different water layers in the oceans and earthquakes on the seabed. Most waves are driven by the wind, and it's customary to call them "WaveOr "wave." the size of the wave depends on the speed of the wind, its timing and the size of the area. To date, the largest wave observed on the sea surface is 34 m. Waves cause fatigue in the structure of the sea and affect the safety of ships ' navigation and berthing. Waves are also often driven by underwater silt movements in near-shore shallow waters, resulting in the collapse of the beach, scavengers in front of buildings, siltation in ports and shipping lanes and reduced water depths, affecting ship navigation and berthing. For the safety of marine structures, ship-driving and ship docks, there must be an understanding of wave theory. When the wind subsides or when the waves move outside the wind zone, the water surface continues to fluctuate as a result of inertia and gravity, at a time when fluctuations are free waves known as “surges” or “spills”. During deep-water transport, some of the energy is lost as a result of friction within the body of water and friction between the surface and the air, while the main energy is consumed by bottom-to-floor stifling and fragmentation after entering shallow human waters. In order to study the characteristics of the wave, it is necessary to classify the resulting wave or wave in transmission. In general, balancing the water surface is unbalanced by external interference, but the influence of surface tension, gravity, etc. Tends to balance, but this balance remains difficult to achieve because of inertia
