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Chapter vii
Wave theoryAnd how it works
In nature, fluctuations in the surface of the water, often referred to as wave movements, are often observed. The waves are the biggest of the oceans
One of the most common phenomena is the evolution of the beach, the most important drivers and forces of sea ports and coastal projects. Causes of ocean fluctuations
Many, such as winds, changes in atmospheric pressure, gravity of celestial bodies, low density of different layers of the ocean and earthquakes of the sea floor. Most waves
Waves are driven by winds that routinely refer to them as “winds” or “waves”. The size of the wind depends on the speed of the wind
The wind is too small. So far, the biggest waves on the surface have been observed
34m
I don't know. The waves have caused the destruction of ocean structures
Safety of navigation and anchorage of ships. Waves are also often powered by underwater mud movements in near-shore shallow waters, resulting in beach collapses
Collapse, siltation in front of buildings, siltation in ports and shipping lanes, reduced water depth and affected ship navigation and berthing. For the ocean
The safety of structures, driving vessels and ship terminals must be understood in wave theory。
When the wind subsides or when the wind moves outside the wind zone, the water continues to fluctuate as a result of inertia and gravity
The movement is a free wave known as the “surge” or the “spill”. The waves are spreading in deep water because of friction inside the water
The effect and the friction of the waves and the air will lose a portion of the energy, the main energy is being held back by the bottom when it enters the shallow water
It's a lot of work。
In order to study the characteristics of the wave, it is necessary to classify the resulting wave or wave in transmission。
In general, balancing water surface is uneven by external interference, but surface tension, gravity, etc
The state tends to balance, but this balance remains difficult to achieve because of inertia, so the free surface of the water bodies is cyclical
There is a pattern of fluctuations, while the water points in the volatile areas are cyclically resonated, which is the characteristic of waves。
Waves can be classified according to external interference。
Wind-induced waves call them wind waves。
Waves caused by gravity from the sun, the moon and other celestial bodies are called tidal waves。
Waves caused by underwater earthquakes are called seismic waves
Waves caused by ship navigation are called ship waves。
The greatest impact on the security of the ocean's structure has been wind surges。
Wind waves fluctuate on the surface of water, also known as surface waves. Wind is an external factor for volatility, and the internal factor for volatility is heavy
Strength. Thus, in terms of stress, wind waves are called gravity waves。
There are different types of waves, depending on the form of the wave and the movement. They can be high or low and can be short-lived. The waves can be static
I'm in one wave
(that's two waves of parallel motion)
Or it could be a moving -- a push wave
♪ a waveform at a certain speed ♪
Waves in the same direction)
It can be either a single wave or a series of waves, one by one。
7-1
Basic equation for fluid motion
