In the showerElectric water heaterWhat's the choice? After listening to the electrician's analysis, we'll have to figure out how many doors there are
First, understand: what is a “safe armor” with an electric water heater
Many people think that a leak in an electric water heater is inevitableBattery protectionPlugs, these are mandatory security configurations
Powerproof walls: “electrical-flow-reducing belts” to strangle the danger at source head
The defence wall is the core safety technique for electric water heaters (as specified in gb 4706. 12 - 2022, safety of appliances for household and similar uses, special requirements for water-based hot water sets), and the principle is simple: there is an “insulation” between the urchins and the outer wall of the water heater, and when the power leaks, the electricity flow has to bend around and its speed has been significantly reduced. As a normal matter, the leak will be pressured to less than 12 ma — to know that the safe current that the human body can withstand is 30 ma and that there is little risk of electrocution within 12 ma。
For example, it's like putting a speed limit on a leak that can't hurt people. But watch out! This thing is getting old. It's been a long time
Battery protection plugs: "0. 1 second bodyguards", direct power outages
In addition to the firewall, the leak protection (rcd) in the triangular plug in the electric water heater is critical! It acts as a sensitive sentinel, and when a leak is found to exceed the assigned value (generally 10-30 mn), it jumps and cuts off the power in 0. 1 seconds, cutting off the power supply directly and preventing electrocution from its root causes。
But the bodyguards are lazy too. Like the rusted metal in the plug, the test buttons are not working (one test per month!) and it's impossible to jump in time when the power leaks. So, if you press the test button once a month, it's broken and you're changing the plugs
Ii. More important than the device: is your home line qualified
A lot of people don't know that electric water heaters are not safe and that the home-based system is the root! If it doesn't work, both the firewalls and the leak plugs could be in vain..
1. State regulations: a dwelling must have a secure location
The housing design code of the ministry of housing and construction (gb 50096-2011) explicitly requires that the residential power supply system must be reliably protected in the area where electricity is less than 4 om. To put it simply, there must be a special “groundline” on the household wire to channel the leak to the ground and not let it run on people。
The reality, however, is that many old subdivisions, self-built houses, rental houses are not available in the same terrain — either the ground line is not working (defunct at the time of renovation) or the ground line is not installed at all (private power supply). In this case, even if the water heater has a firewall and a leak, there's nowhere to go when the power leaks
2. How can home-grown disqualification be judged
• checking the distribution box: is there a "wire end" in the distribution box? If not, it is largely off-site; if it is, it also has to see that the connection is not strong (do not allow electricians to use professional tools)。
• electricians to detect electrical resistance: it is safest to ask electricians to use a ground resistance test to measure the value of less than 4 om。
“guidance on bathing and power outages” by families:
When we understand the device and the location, let's just say, "what families can get electricity in the shower and what must be broken?"
New/deficit: priority is given to “continuous electricity”, but this has to be done
In the case of a new house built in the last five years, a condensed house, which is built on a mandatory basis, and an electric water heater that you have bought is a formal brand (the new machine's firewall and leak) and without electricity cuts in the shower。
But remember one move: press the test button of the leak plug once a month! When the plug is pressed, the plug should jump off immediately; when released, it can be automatically restored (reconnected). If it doesn't work, change the plug
In addition, each year when a brand is sold, it is necessary to clean up the inside. Don't mess with it。
2. Old and old sub-districts/self-built/rented housing: check the site before deciding
If it's an old neighborhood, a rural building for more than 10 years, or a rent-in-the-port house, then stop the water heater and find an electrician to check the site
• if the site is qualified (the distribution tank has a line and the resistance is tested < 4 times): the “new room” approach may be used instead of the plug, but the monthly leak detection plug is overhauled annually。
• if the site does not qualify (no surface, no surface, no surface, no electrical resistance test); before bathing, plugs must be removed。
3. These exceptional circumstances require power cuts
In addition to the “destination” situation, there are several scenarios where electricity must be cut:
• water heater maintenance: even if only a magnesium bar is replaced, it will have to be repaired with a blackout test to confirm that there are no problems before electricity is reached。
• when the internal urchin is washed: power must be out of the water, it is in the water that the power leaks。
• thunderstorm weather: despite the low probability of lightning hitting the circuit, “sensitized power” generated by lightning may run along the wires and cut off electricity before it is pre-empted。
Iv. Conclusion: the key to safe bathing is “the drug of disease”
To be honest, the electric water heater takes a bath without constant power, without an absolute “cut” or “not break”, depending on how well your household wire is connected (terrestrial) and the water heater's device is not working (wall + leak)。
Remember these three cores:
1 water heaters (self-enhancement walls and qualified leakages) selected for the official brand
2 to confirm that the home-based system is satisfactory (without the surface line, do not risk)
3 cultivation of a “test key per month, annual overhaul”。
Don't get in trouble, these steps are “small costs for greater safety” compared to electrocution and even life-threatening. I'll never regret it
Finally, when you're in trouble with the circuit, don't mess with yourself, find a certified electrician, give a professional a job and go to safety
